Thursday, September 25, 2008

Lost in Scotland

Scotland is Dhofar on speed after the Khareef. More Heather, more hills, more people wearing kilts! They say Switzerland is the poor mans Scotland, I tend to say its Gods Country. OK, blasphemy as all of the world is Gods country, but those who have been to Scotland will understand. And apologies to any who may be affronted by that allusion. All countries have aspects that one can only say that this was crafted by The Almighty. The Grand Canyon at dawn, or during the rain; The Swiss Alps when the sun shines on the green hills or the white powder snow; pale early sunshine on morning mist... oh the list goes on and on and on...

Back to Scotland. The air is like champagne, it actually tingles in your blood as you take that first breath on the first morning you are back in the Highlands. The sun is out and you think all is well with the world, so you do some early morning stretches with the sun on your face and a cool breeze. You're flying... until you get indoors and find a couple of dozen red spots on your ankles and feet. Then the curses start.. so much for a lovely day. The sun has gone in, the clouds are in place and you find the Curse of the Highlands have feasted on you. Ha! Yes, the famous Midges of the Heelands. The similarities between Oman and Scotland mount up, during the Khareef in the South the bloodsucking mosquitoes come out and pester the cattle. I suppose we are the cattle in Scotland.

The Scottish kilts are the same principle, though far more colourful than the wizar worn by the Jibalis, the Omani equivalent of the Highlanders. The sgian dubh (small dagger tucked into the sock) is replaced by the khanjar. The hills after the rainy season can remind one of the hills in Scotland, sans heather of course. The highlanders of Oman even have their same language as the Gaelic of Scotland does. The Clans of Scotland are the Qabilas (tribes) of Oman. Who says the east is different from the west?

I wonder what the jibali version of Och Aye the Noo is? On that note I shall leave you pondering the thought that there really is such a translation.

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Lost in the mountains

What a day, what a trip! Decided to go up the mountain to escape from the heat of the plains. HAH!

Left around 9 am with whole family in tow, including two dogs who travelled in style in their own car (also with the food, BBQ brazier, coal, coolers and mats). 4 4WDs in convoy and each with their own travel plan. I won as I had Senior member of family with me. Second car kept on trying to lose me and I eventually sent them off ahead of me.

Just up the road to Jebel Akhdar there is a checkpoint. Local Checkpoint Charlie asked name and double googled when I told him nationality and name. Then asked if I knew what I was doing, we decided not to play with his mind any more and said yes we did. Off we went up and way with 3 cars following and making constantly making sure cars 3 and 4 were OK. What fabulous views, yes even the driver sees whats around him or her while negotiating the curves. Had to make a stop on a suitable lay-by as 3 and 4 were so far behind us, but we soon saw them chugging along like little toy cars behind us, being passed by locals in non 4WDs. One pick up passed us carrying a baby bull and a goat. Talk about a load of bull. Ha ha. Sorry.. sense of humour run off with me again. I was very concerned about the animals as the bull kept on moving as though to jump out of pick up bed, or the momentum of the curves to throw him out. Talk about heart in mouth at the thought of dead bull in road.

Pit stop at Jebel Akhdar Hotel and to show Senior member the place. Last time he was there was 20 years ago when passes were needed to access the single lane road leading treacherously up the mountain. This was a doddle compared to what it was then according to Senior member.

Off to find lunch spot and where to go. One car says this way, other says that way but we go any way. Confused? We were but its all fun, and off we go to higher elevations where temps down to 29C, but NO view. Turn around and on way back see young fellow resting under Juniper tree with local honey for sale. Stop and try to negotiate with him but only got less than 10% of him. It's cheaper down on the Sinaw road where the same honey (Sidr)* is sold for RO 20 per Vimto bottle. His reason for not selling cheaper? He had been sitting there since 6 am trying to sell the honey (and nothing was going to stop him from getting full price even if he had to stay there the whole night! or so went our thinking). His accounting was a way off as well when we came to buy the bottles, but he realised his error and agreed with us eventually.

Back down to Shireja and Diana Point (now renamed but I don't know the new name) where I led them to our picnic spot with view AND a tree to sit under. Whilst parking the car, Senior member tried to scare me into my old age by falling down and gushing pints of blood. Or so it seemed by the time I put the car in P and sprinted over to venerable parent. Luckily I had remembered to pack the first aid kit and we bandaged his palm up and put him under the tree with a very cold drink. I seemed to have been designated Cookie and after setting the rules (NO kids to rim without a parent, dogs in shade etc), set up the brazier, on with the BBQ. It was warmer than expected up there, despite the breeze which was very comfortable in the shade. Cooking over a hot brazier in 31 C in the sun is rather warm and one should not underestimate the effect of heat/sun stroke. Hats and plenty of water intake are a must.

After lunch a wee stroll along the rim with the dog and the kids, then off in the cars for a sightseeing trip to the walnut orchards. The hunt for the orchards in itself was a journey. Turning left on the main road, we passed the wee dip and curve in the road where according to Senior member there was a plane crash from the days of the troubles in the mountains in the '50s and he recounted the tale of 22 SAS. The village across from Diana Point is Al Ayn, a village of lovely stepped fields, where roses are grown. One of our suppliers of roses is here and we look forward to many more seasons of roses. The steppes are incredible and trail down the side of the gorge to what would appear to be the bottom. Supposedly built by the Persians who also gave to Oman the knowledge of the falaj (water system).

On to Wadi bani Habib, where the pomegranates grow and the famed walnuts. And what a crop of pomegranates (ruman in arabic) it will be judging from the net covered fruit hanging on the trees. I asked a local lady when the fruit would be ready and was told month 9 or 10, ie September or November. I wonder if they have roses here as well. I am sure they do. A lovely village, shown on the local map from the hotel as 'old village' - a definite MUST to return and photograph. Narrow roads and houses overhanging the road to make little tunnels and not easy to navigate. Our hunt for the walnuts was not so fruitful (no pun intended) and we had to reverse in some very narrow roads, go through tunnels barely large enough for a 4WD and up narrow entries praying no cars were coming in your direction! Well, its all part of the Lost in Oman experience isn't it. You have no idea whats coming at you.

Started down the mountain at 4.10 pm , with a quicker pitstop at the hotel. Tried putting 'Lucky' in descent gradient mode, but it wouldn't take as the minimum speed had to be 30kms and we were definitely doing more than that with safety to spare. Down at Checkpoint Charlie at 5 and on the highway at 5.15, back at base by 6.45.

A good day for all and lots of fun and memories made today.


The Sidr tree, (also known as Lote tree, Christ's Thorn, Jujube or Nabkh tree. Botanical name: Ziziphus spina-christi) is an ancient tree. The Jujube fruit was the first thing Prophet Adam (pbuh) ate when he was made to descend to earth. http://sidrhoney.tripod.com/id12.html

Falaj (pl. aflaaj) means a system for the distribution of water and is commonly used to describe the irrigation channel system downstream of the water's source. http://www.omanet.om/english/tourism/eco/falaj.asp?cat=tour&subcat=ecoo1

Monday, May 19, 2008

Safest country in Middle East

Kudos to Oman! The Intelligence Unit of The Economist has cited Oman as the safest country in the Middle East. I am looking for the link and soon as i get it.. it will be up here. For now it appears to be a closely guarded secret as I can't find a link to put here.

Wooohooo. I've always said its a safe place. Anytime something happens up the road from us friends email me asking if I'm alright. My answer is always, if this place gets any quieter I'd be catatonic!

May God keep Oman, H.M Sultan Qaboos, and his people safe. Ameen.

Monday, April 14, 2008

Others Not Lost In Oman

Wow, I have just seen how many people have been to Oman in the past year and blogged about it. I was bored one day... One of the few times I have allowed myself to be bored so I decided to see how many blogs on Oman there were. Woooeeeee.

Some were rather funny; the one from the couple on a cruise stopping in Dubai .." Women are shrouded and closeted and circumcised and their value is based on their ability to produce male offspring" HUH? and "a huge supply ship which carries his fleet of multicolored Mercedes Benz cars. ..again HUH???? http://www.travelblog.org/Middle-East/Oman/Muscat/blog-264337.html , http://www.travelblog.org/Middle-East/Oman/ , http://www.travelpod.com/blogs/0/Oman.html My word.


As long as the visitors respect and understand they are in a Muslim country and do not have the attitude that I have paid my money and I can do and act as I please they will be welcomed by all. An attitude I have actually seen. Sad. for them. I'm not talking about being covered up head to toe like Saudi, just covering up shoulders and knees. And no tonsil sucking as I saw on the Muttrah corniche one night. If I wasn't in a rush I'd have probably sat down with a bag of popcorn and watched the show. So nice kind peeps, visitors, guests, Ahlan wa Sahlan to Oman, we couldn't be happier to have you with us, just respect who we are, our traditions and our values. After all that's what you came to see in the first place wasn't it, and the more that one does not respect that, the less welcome there will be and EVERYBODY will be a loser; the locals will lose revenue and the visitors will lose that famous Omani hospitality.

It pleases me that so far all the blogs read on Oman have been favourable, in fact some have talked about the generosity of the Omanis, and long may it be so.

Ahlan wa Sahlan bikum , Marhaba , A'salaam wa aleikum.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

Still Lost Outside Oman

Me again. I was in Oman and now I'm out again. So much for being lost in Oman, I'm spending more time being lost outside Oman than in the country. Still, its exciting being lost in other countries, whether or not you are familiar to them or not.

I haven't had much opportunity to getting lost here as I have been busy with home decorating ideas and the weather has not been inviting enough to entice you out. Did have a quick picnic away from the workers as the sun came out and it was warm enough. The past weekend was brilliant sunshine, followed by gloom for the week. Brrrrrrrr. Hopefully this weekend will be better. Don't know where I'll be getting lost, thats the whole point of being lost innit? Wonder where I can get lost? I'm beginning to feel like that cartoon character.. Where is the World is Carmen.

Until the next time.

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Lost outside Oman

Sorry I have no news to add, other than I've been lost outside Oman and just got back. I don't like air travel as much as I used to, so much of the pleasure of travel has been taken away over the past years.

Samuel Johnson said When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford. True to the first part, but HAH to the second, tis a monstrous expense to live in London nowadays Mr Johnson. Wonder what he would make of London ala 21st Century? There is a certain something to London; Paris has the Cafe Society, New York is electric, Madrid is habituated by insomniacs. London is eclectic. It has something from each capital, We have culture till its coming out of every orifice, we have Fashion with a capital F, we have a Cafe Society of sorts and Clubs. Football (soccer to our american friends who have yet to understand the difference between REAL football and rugby), cricket and rugby. Little wonder that people love London. Well, its the same for most major capital cities, you either love 'em or hate 'em. I love London, it maybe dirty, it maybe rude, but its in your blood. Somebody said I love Paris, but for the Parisiens, same could be said for Les Anglais.

But in the end. .. its good to be back in Oman.

Vive le Difference!

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Lost In Oman

I got this name from our last field trip. Going out for the first time with two of our Project Managers to visit one of their projects in the Sharqiya (Eastern Region), I thought I would stop of at one of our suppliers to start off another separate project. On the return journey they asked if I minded going to see Wadi Andam, to which I responded with an enthusiastic .. Yes lets do it!


The Wadi Andam turnoff is after the Samad A'shan turn, if you are coming from Ibra, or before it if you are coming from Muscat. I asked the two of them if they had been there and they said no but they had wanted to see where it was and what it would lead to. I like that sort of explorative, curious nature and I was happy to go along. We travelled down the road, not knowing where it would take us, past the roads leading to Wadi Jaray, Wadi Suqt, until we came to a signpost to Izki and Sinaw. We hooted with laughter and disbelief as this would have taken us on a giant loop. We turned around and immediately saw the sign posted to Wadi Mahram. Well, we looked at each other and nobody objected, especially as it said Wadi Mahram 15 kms. A wadi just like others, with twists and turns and ups and downs, yet beautiful in its starkness and late afternoon light.


We continued past villages until we came over a crest and saw two old houses lit in the afternoon light. It looked lovely and I did want to take a photograph of this hamlet from above. Missed that opportunity but Amir decided to turn into the hamlet for closer photographs. The village is called Seeh and is long and wide and follows the wadi as most villages in a wadi do. Walking around the two old houses, with the newer houses positioned among the palms, seeing history all around us; taking photographs of the houses, of the old doors and crumbling adobe I got a feeling of sadness emanating from them. Maybe it was my feeling that history like this ought to be preserved, if not to live in, at least to remind us of where we came from, who we are, how we lived.


The treasure was found in the second house I peeked into , and finding doors with carved lintels and centre bars. I couldn't resist going in, even though we had talked about Djinns living in empty houses, and with a small prayer I entered. Well, it couldn't hurt to say something. We found 3 doors with carved lintels and then TWO old storage jars with designs I haven't come across. Talk about excitement, I even got the others to come in to look and they were as excited as I was. I wanted to find out who the owner was, so started the Quest.


Outside we found a young man who told us who owned the house but said it may have been sold. We found the house of the owner further down the road, the blue house past the small walled grave. Nobody was in so we knocked on the neighbours gates and found out they had 'travelled' (saffar) to Qaryatain to visit their daughter. That is an old word denoting a lengthy travel rather than a journey down the road, and shows how arduous the process of travel was in the days before Sultan Qaboos. We got the daughters telephone number and asked her about the house and was told the name of the new owner of the property. Off we went back to the original houses and tried to find out where the fellow lived, only to be told he lived in Muscat! Tried to call him but no luck as the adhan for Maghrib (the sunset call to prayer) had been called. I do hope he will be agreeable to selling us the old storage jars as they will be a welcome addition to our collection of Omani design.


On the return journey, continuing through Wadi Mahram which we found out exits on the Nizwa - Muscat road before Samail, the sun had begun to set and driving through those winding roads, past small hamlets and villages and seeing the lights come on, we decided that we would start the Lost in Oman tours. Tag line - You don't know what you will find, and neither do we. Its the idea that there is so much more to Oman than the average tourist will ever find. We too are tourists in the sense of the idea that we are not 'native' to the area so every journey for us is a journey of discovery, even if we have been there several times.


Come along with us for the ride.