Off to Al Qabil in the Sharqiya (eastern province) to meet with our ladies. A bit of late start as today I had to make one of lifes difficult decisions, to put down the last of our lager lout pack. Luteh was the last of the Labations who have been guarding this house for the past decade or more. He was a mix of a Black Labrador and a German Shepherd and was one of the large dogs of The Pack, named the Lager Louts for their boisterous behaviour but not a wicked bone in their bodies! The next hurdle was the traffic jam on the road outside my place, all the way up to the main road. The time for a traffic light at that junction is fast approaching if this is what happens each morning. This is the government workers traffic jam, by the time I'm off to my little office it's all nice and quiet.
Picked up my team from our usual meeting place and off we trundled , or in this case zoomed up the highway to Ibra, stopping briefly to fill our travel mugs with chai and tums with breakfast sandwiches. I have heard news that they are going to make the road to Ibra a dual track highway. A much needed construction as the road to Sur via Ibra is one of the most dangerous routes on a Wednesday afternoon and Friday afternoon with idiots overtaking on blind corners and usually at high speed. My reaction; kill yourself but don't take me or anybody else with you!
Met up with our visitors in Ibra and onto meet our ladies at Al Qabil. The purpose of our visit, for our visitors to photograph how the weavers dye their wool using organic dyes, and for A. to collect her finished products from the ladies embroidery circle, a group of ladies we trained to do traditional sharqiya embroidery. I ensured the photo shoot took as authentic photographs as possible, from the beginning of the process till the end result. A. picked up the embroidery she had left with them before the summer break and some of the results are beautifully executed and I am excited at
We stopped in Ibra to purchase some of the msar (mens turban) to send to the ladies in the south as we can't go down south to purchase the colours we want. It also helps the local traders. Whilst there I wish I had my camera at hand as I saw a couple of eye / mind boggling products in a window of a ''department'' shop. A Bra massager and an intimate massager disguised as a back massager. Almost tempted to go back and take the photographs and post them online.
On the return journey stopped at Tuwyah to buy from the roadside vendors. At this time of year they are selling Safarjel, a citrus fruit resembling a pomelo, must be eaten at time of peeling or else it will turn bitter if left. A perennial item appears to be Honey, from Sidr * (RO 10 - U$ 25) a light very flowery tasting honey, to Sumoor ** (RO 25 - U$ 62) a heavy rich tasting honey. The honey is sold in cordial bottles and the prices have come down. Before summer the price for the Sumoor honey was RO 30 - U$ 75, but I was able to purchase a bottle for RO 22 - U$ 55. The rest of the journey was uneventful and got home ready for a cool shower and rest from the dust and car vibrations!
* Sidr - Lote tree, Christ's Thorn, Jujube or Nabkh tree. Botanical name: Ziziphus spina-christi http://sidrhoney.tripod.com/id12.html
** Sumoor (still looking for english name)
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Home
23 August
Home again Home again Jiggity Jig.
Aroused from a light sleep by drunken revelry outside on the street around 4 am. You don't expect to hear such noise through the windows at the Balmoral Hotel.
We were ready to leave at 7 am and after a brief farewell to the parents (they wouldn't see Jeff in London as he was leaving at 4.30 pm from Heathrow) in the taxi at 7.04 am. A mad dash careening through the streets of Edinburgh on Sunday morning and we were at the airport at 7.29. After seeing the lines at EasyJet, I am afraid I succumbed to shelling out an extra 9.50 per person for the speedy boarding service which has a dedicated desk and pre boarding access. It was a godsend (save for a moment at check in when the woman went slightly anal, sorry about the indelicacy but she was weirdly obsessive about the size of my regular backpack which did fit in the measuring frame) as it helped save time for us to get through security without panic.
Waiting and people watching and seeing 3 ladies and 2 babies miss their plane. They cleared security at the the same time as we did but didn't understand the concept of time keeping as the gate closed before they sauntered up and then commenced a shouting match with the gate keeper. I wonder how they managed to get their ticket sorted out, do you get on the next plane if you are late at the gate?
Arrived home at midday after waiting an age for our bags to appear, then rushing through the terminal for the train. A light lunch and then off to the airport for Jeffs return flight. Talk about jet set. Hah!
So ended our lovely week long tiring but interesting hectic tour of the West Coast of Scotland. We would like to return to explore at a more leisurely pace.
Home again Home again Jiggity Jig.
Aroused from a light sleep by drunken revelry outside on the street around 4 am. You don't expect to hear such noise through the windows at the Balmoral Hotel.
We were ready to leave at 7 am and after a brief farewell to the parents (they wouldn't see Jeff in London as he was leaving at 4.30 pm from Heathrow) in the taxi at 7.04 am. A mad dash careening through the streets of Edinburgh on Sunday morning and we were at the airport at 7.29. After seeing the lines at EasyJet, I am afraid I succumbed to shelling out an extra 9.50 per person for the speedy boarding service which has a dedicated desk and pre boarding access. It was a godsend (save for a moment at check in when the woman went slightly anal, sorry about the indelicacy but she was weirdly obsessive about the size of my regular backpack which did fit in the measuring frame) as it helped save time for us to get through security without panic.
Waiting and people watching and seeing 3 ladies and 2 babies miss their plane. They cleared security at the the same time as we did but didn't understand the concept of time keeping as the gate closed before they sauntered up and then commenced a shouting match with the gate keeper. I wonder how they managed to get their ticket sorted out, do you get on the next plane if you are late at the gate?
Arrived home at midday after waiting an age for our bags to appear, then rushing through the terminal for the train. A light lunch and then off to the airport for Jeffs return flight. Talk about jet set. Hah!
So ended our lovely week long tiring but interesting hectic tour of the West Coast of Scotland. We would like to return to explore at a more leisurely pace.
Last Day
22 August
Last day on the road, heading back to Edinburgh with a stop at Pitlochry for 'auld lang syne', or so I like to think.
Woke up to brilliant sunshine, but by the time I finished breakfast and stripping the bed it had retired for the day! But then what was new about that? A present from James to mom, Scottish Frankincense he called it, peat that burns with a fragrance. Wonder if we can market that? Left on time but had to go back when we got a phone call from James asking if somebody was missing a lens from their spectacles. DAD!!
Leaving Inverness we made a detour to Moy, the current residence of The MacIntosh. For the sassenachs, the head of a clan is known as The (name of clan). A gated entrance past what appears to be an empty gate house and down a narrow road pushing past overhanging trees and a sign that said Dangerous Bends. Moy House is a small Victorian mansion with a super view of the loch (Loch Moy) in front. Dad went in amidst our jokes to keep the engine running should he be forced to 'exit stage left' with The MacIntosh in hot pursuit brandishing a shotgun.
He emerged with the mother of the present clan chief, ready to show us the remnants of the previous residence. Sadly all the items are relegated to a damp and must shed. I'm sure the most important pieces are residing in the main house, but they had the bed that Bonnie Prince Charlie slept in and the MacIntosh colours on display.
Looking through the publications of the Clan Chattan (pronounced Hattan) I came across the name Jamie Stewart and seemed to strike a memory chord and I asked Mrs MacIntosh about Milton of Moy and related the story of meeting with Jamie Stewart during the Oman with Britain exhibition in Oman celebrating 200 years of mutual friendship. I told her that he had made a scarf for me in an Oman tartan. Sadly he passed away a couple of years ago, and she asked me to pass on that story to the publication editor. A couple of photographs and we were on our way out, though not the way we entered.
Had a brief doze (so what's new?) and awoke while going through the Cairngorm National Park, just before seeing familiar countryside. Past Bruar, Blair Atholl and soon we were in Pitlochry heading for The Armoury restaurant for lunch. Imagine my surprise when I walked down to the tables to find Mama, Maitha and Abir sitting at the table, talk about jaw dropping. The weather cooperated and had a very pleasant lunch of Haddock and Chips which they do very well and nice to know their standards have not dropped even though the restaurant is under new management. Off to the High Street in search of the elusive Homecoming t-shirt, via a short stop at the charity bookshop at the station. Sad to say no luck here!
Back on the road and back to sleep until just before the Forth Bridge and at the hotel just before 5 pm. The lobby was chaotic with sheeplike tourists and the staff trying to herd them to no avail. Hoped my bags would not go walkabout as it would be quite easy to walk off with a lonely bag and I don't think anybody would be the wiser. Ran out again to see if I could purchase my t-shirt at the NGS shop and almost got locked in. I was so certain I had seen this t-shirt and lo and behold I was vindicated when Jeff called me to say he had found it in one of the many tourist shops along Princes Street.
A quiet dinner as I could not persuade anybody to come out exploring with me. Maybe for the better as we had an an obscenely early wake up and departure for London - wake up at 5.30, breakfast at 6 and depart at 7 am.
* http://members.fortunecity.com/invernessa82/id76.htm (showing original mansion)
http://www.rampantscotland.com/clans/blclanmacintosh.htm
Last day on the road, heading back to Edinburgh with a stop at Pitlochry for 'auld lang syne', or so I like to think.
Woke up to brilliant sunshine, but by the time I finished breakfast and stripping the bed it had retired for the day! But then what was new about that? A present from James to mom, Scottish Frankincense he called it, peat that burns with a fragrance. Wonder if we can market that? Left on time but had to go back when we got a phone call from James asking if somebody was missing a lens from their spectacles. DAD!!
Leaving Inverness we made a detour to Moy, the current residence of The MacIntosh. For the sassenachs, the head of a clan is known as The (name of clan). A gated entrance past what appears to be an empty gate house and down a narrow road pushing past overhanging trees and a sign that said Dangerous Bends. Moy House is a small Victorian mansion with a super view of the loch (Loch Moy) in front. Dad went in amidst our jokes to keep the engine running should he be forced to 'exit stage left' with The MacIntosh in hot pursuit brandishing a shotgun.
He emerged with the mother of the present clan chief, ready to show us the remnants of the previous residence. Sadly all the items are relegated to a damp and must shed. I'm sure the most important pieces are residing in the main house, but they had the bed that Bonnie Prince Charlie slept in and the MacIntosh colours on display.
Looking through the publications of the Clan Chattan (pronounced Hattan) I came across the name Jamie Stewart and seemed to strike a memory chord and I asked Mrs MacIntosh about Milton of Moy and related the story of meeting with Jamie Stewart during the Oman with Britain exhibition in Oman celebrating 200 years of mutual friendship. I told her that he had made a scarf for me in an Oman tartan. Sadly he passed away a couple of years ago, and she asked me to pass on that story to the publication editor. A couple of photographs and we were on our way out, though not the way we entered.
Had a brief doze (so what's new?) and awoke while going through the Cairngorm National Park, just before seeing familiar countryside. Past Bruar, Blair Atholl and soon we were in Pitlochry heading for The Armoury restaurant for lunch. Imagine my surprise when I walked down to the tables to find Mama, Maitha and Abir sitting at the table, talk about jaw dropping. The weather cooperated and had a very pleasant lunch of Haddock and Chips which they do very well and nice to know their standards have not dropped even though the restaurant is under new management. Off to the High Street in search of the elusive Homecoming t-shirt, via a short stop at the charity bookshop at the station. Sad to say no luck here!
Back on the road and back to sleep until just before the Forth Bridge and at the hotel just before 5 pm. The lobby was chaotic with sheeplike tourists and the staff trying to herd them to no avail. Hoped my bags would not go walkabout as it would be quite easy to walk off with a lonely bag and I don't think anybody would be the wiser. Ran out again to see if I could purchase my t-shirt at the NGS shop and almost got locked in. I was so certain I had seen this t-shirt and lo and behold I was vindicated when Jeff called me to say he had found it in one of the many tourist shops along Princes Street.
A quiet dinner as I could not persuade anybody to come out exploring with me. Maybe for the better as we had an an obscenely early wake up and departure for London - wake up at 5.30, breakfast at 6 and depart at 7 am.
* http://members.fortunecity.com/invernessa82/id76.htm (showing original mansion)
http://www.rampantscotland.com/clans/blclanmacintosh.htm
Culloden
August 21
Glorious morning sunshine so I had to wander up the road from the hotel to get morning views of Inverloch Harbour. The port was already busy with ferries ready to set sail. After breakfast I got a lift down to the Highland Pottery to see what they did. Handmade pottery on the premises, they decorate just about everything around them, from the stone walls, to rocks, to car shapes and sofa shapes with pottery shards.
Dozed on and off on the road to Inverness and Culloden, taking the 'scenic route' , ie B roads. Stopped at the GlenMorangie Distillery just before Inverness. Saw a comment by A. Samad Sakran from S. Arabia who wrote - "Must Have one of these at home!" Hmmm.. I wonder. There was no time to wait for the next tour so on to Culloden.
The Culloden Battlefield Visitor Centre is a new structure, in keeping with the lie of the land, a low built building of local stone that blends in with the surroundings rather than dominate and overshadow the events of that day. All the outside signage was first in Gaelic then English. A quick lunch (I have learnt not to delay feeding my tum when the chance comes along) and then through the museum which is incredibly well done! Interactive displays made history come alive with the voices of people living at that time, from nobles to farmers. At the end of the museum you could pick up an audio tour that is linked by GPS to points on the field so the audio comes on automatically. Poignant tales by the soldiers on both sides of the field as you walk around, absorbing the atmosphere. A cairn has been erected in the middle of the battlefield, with grave markers of the clanspeople who had fallen. The MacIntoshes had the most with 3 markers. I said a brief prayer for their souls and all who had fallen on that day. *
The clouds were gathering at the end of the tour and the wind was whipping the trees, all very fitting for the end. Dad and the others had gone to Fort St. George and we had to collect them on the way to the McNies in Rafford. Saw a parasurfer on the loch in front of the fort, made me feel COLD, but it was a sight to see.
Arrived at sunset chez les McNies, in time for tea and a brief walk around his lovely garden behind the house. A late night after dinner, spent talking with James and MC and catching up on news and then upto bed for the last day on the road.
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Culloden
Glorious morning sunshine so I had to wander up the road from the hotel to get morning views of Inverloch Harbour. The port was already busy with ferries ready to set sail. After breakfast I got a lift down to the Highland Pottery to see what they did. Handmade pottery on the premises, they decorate just about everything around them, from the stone walls, to rocks, to car shapes and sofa shapes with pottery shards.
Dozed on and off on the road to Inverness and Culloden, taking the 'scenic route' , ie B roads. Stopped at the GlenMorangie Distillery just before Inverness. Saw a comment by A. Samad Sakran from S. Arabia who wrote - "Must Have one of these at home!" Hmmm.. I wonder. There was no time to wait for the next tour so on to Culloden.
The Culloden Battlefield Visitor Centre is a new structure, in keeping with the lie of the land, a low built building of local stone that blends in with the surroundings rather than dominate and overshadow the events of that day. All the outside signage was first in Gaelic then English. A quick lunch (I have learnt not to delay feeding my tum when the chance comes along) and then through the museum which is incredibly well done! Interactive displays made history come alive with the voices of people living at that time, from nobles to farmers. At the end of the museum you could pick up an audio tour that is linked by GPS to points on the field so the audio comes on automatically. Poignant tales by the soldiers on both sides of the field as you walk around, absorbing the atmosphere. A cairn has been erected in the middle of the battlefield, with grave markers of the clanspeople who had fallen. The MacIntoshes had the most with 3 markers. I said a brief prayer for their souls and all who had fallen on that day. *
The clouds were gathering at the end of the tour and the wind was whipping the trees, all very fitting for the end. Dad and the others had gone to Fort St. George and we had to collect them on the way to the McNies in Rafford. Saw a parasurfer on the loch in front of the fort, made me feel COLD, but it was a sight to see.
Arrived at sunset chez les McNies, in time for tea and a brief walk around his lovely garden behind the house. A late night after dinner, spent talking with James and MC and catching up on news and then upto bed for the last day on the road.
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Culloden
Eilean Donan to LochInver
20th August
Woke up to another day of rain. I need my vitamin D!! On the road again and back onto the mainland via the Skye Road Bridge.
Eilean Donan Castle. I have wanted to visit this castle since the first time I saw it. It used to be part of the Clan McKenzie stronghold, but as I was told by a steward, the Clan MacRae were the traditional constables of the Clan McKenzie and were given the castle by them. Perched on an outcropping of rock close to the shore, there are many old lores why and how the castle came into being * (see link at bottom).
Entering the castle through a side door there is an exhibition on the ancient site of the castle, passing into an open courtyard with a grand view of the loch. The rain was diminishing and clouds opening up to allow polka dots of blue to shine through. The views from the courtyard were no less beautiful than the other sites we have seen through our tour, the trees coming down to the shoreline, still water and the reflections of the skies, small sailing vessels.
The castle has been furnished on all 3 levels and there are wardens or guides to help with questions and they are kept busy with clan members from throughout the world who want to learn their history. In the grand hall there is a framed poem written by a poet who bears the same name as the Lt Col who restored the castle; a famous poem from WW1 that is as pertinent now as it was then. In Flanders Field do poppies grow. The modern version is In Afghanistan do poppies grow. There is a small section on the military participation of the clan in various battles. There are no more Scottish regiments thanks to the then Minister of Defense and I shall say no more about that lest I commence my rant!
Onto Ullapool with the row of houses looking out at the harbour and the jetty with the fishing boats moored in rows, the fishermen working on their nets for the trawlers. The sun came out for the first time in 3 days, what a relief. Had lunch at the Best Seafood Restaurant in 2005, obviously so good I can't remember its name. Walked around with Dad after lunch, looking for the elusive t shirt. I shall NOT give up. Onto the road again for our penultimate night on the road.
Stopped along the way to look at the ruins of Ardvrek Castle with its interesting ghost of a McLeod chieftans daughter committing suicide rather than be the "deils bride". Close by is Calda House, where The McKenzie had his household. There is a ghost, or ghostly lights associated with this structure. Luckily the sun shone on us, yet one can imagine how it would look during inclement weather. **
LochInver is yet another fishing port, though situated in a bay looking out at the Atlantic Ocean. The main road with the store, the post office, the visitor centre, a church and the ubiquitous memorial to the fallen of WW1 led to the fishing port. The port jetty is dominated by a tall ugly square block and a squat warehouse where refrigerated lorries from the continent were waiting the catch. A Victorian style hotel on the front would have been in prime position for tourists, had it not been for that tall structure which seemed like refrigerated fish holder. I wonder if this the location that Young Lochinvar hailed from in Walter Scotts poem? ***
Up a steep winding road to the Inver Lodge Hotel, a building with little character resembling more a roadside motel, but the views of the bay were fabulous, especially as the sun had come out and more than made up for lack of architectural character. The reception was warm, the greeting friendly as we found throughout the tour and the rooms were large with comfortable beds, in our case, we could have slept 4 in the bed.
I took the opportunity before dinner to go out and take photographs of the bay and the mountain overlooking the landscape. Suilven is an imposing and interesting geological structure in that it is a single mountain, conical in shape. I climbed up the steps behind the hotel to the heather path to look at the seemingly wild countryside and Suilven sitting there with the clouds overhead, a dark mound shrouded. It started raining whilst I was out there, and before entering the hotel was lucky to see a rainbow over the hills.
Drinks before dining in the large dining room with a good view but sadly not a good table near the window. Saw the last boats and ferries come in while the sun went down. The sunset gilded everything in the room, turning Dad into a golden buddha. The hotel is obviously popular with sportsmen, there were two tables of anglers, we did pass several places where the fishing looked good. There was a consternation in the kitchen with shouting (visions of Fawlty Towers) and an embarrassed maitre d' coming out to apologise that a certain dish had been spoiled (must have been the chef chewing out the sous chef) and could he offer an alternative. After dinner a post prandial walk outside, walking up the road and seeing the lights of the harbour down below made me think about coming out in the morning, weather permitting.
No fire to sit around and warm ourselves, so suffice a bed time drink at the bar and off we went to the XXL bed. Wonder where they get their bed linen for such a large bed? Could pontificate more but am too tired and the brain may go places I don't want it go!!
* http://www.scotland-inverness.co.uk/Chatelaine/EDC/edc-history.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ardvreck_Castle
http://homepages.wmich.edu/~cooneys/poems/Scott.Lochinvar.html
Woke up to another day of rain. I need my vitamin D!! On the road again and back onto the mainland via the Skye Road Bridge.
Eilean Donan Castle. I have wanted to visit this castle since the first time I saw it. It used to be part of the Clan McKenzie stronghold, but as I was told by a steward, the Clan MacRae were the traditional constables of the Clan McKenzie and were given the castle by them. Perched on an outcropping of rock close to the shore, there are many old lores why and how the castle came into being * (see link at bottom).
Entering the castle through a side door there is an exhibition on the ancient site of the castle, passing into an open courtyard with a grand view of the loch. The rain was diminishing and clouds opening up to allow polka dots of blue to shine through. The views from the courtyard were no less beautiful than the other sites we have seen through our tour, the trees coming down to the shoreline, still water and the reflections of the skies, small sailing vessels.
The castle has been furnished on all 3 levels and there are wardens or guides to help with questions and they are kept busy with clan members from throughout the world who want to learn their history. In the grand hall there is a framed poem written by a poet who bears the same name as the Lt Col who restored the castle; a famous poem from WW1 that is as pertinent now as it was then. In Flanders Field do poppies grow. The modern version is In Afghanistan do poppies grow. There is a small section on the military participation of the clan in various battles. There are no more Scottish regiments thanks to the then Minister of Defense and I shall say no more about that lest I commence my rant!
Onto Ullapool with the row of houses looking out at the harbour and the jetty with the fishing boats moored in rows, the fishermen working on their nets for the trawlers. The sun came out for the first time in 3 days, what a relief. Had lunch at the Best Seafood Restaurant in 2005, obviously so good I can't remember its name. Walked around with Dad after lunch, looking for the elusive t shirt. I shall NOT give up. Onto the road again for our penultimate night on the road.
Stopped along the way to look at the ruins of Ardvrek Castle with its interesting ghost of a McLeod chieftans daughter committing suicide rather than be the "deils bride". Close by is Calda House, where The McKenzie had his household. There is a ghost, or ghostly lights associated with this structure. Luckily the sun shone on us, yet one can imagine how it would look during inclement weather. **
LochInver is yet another fishing port, though situated in a bay looking out at the Atlantic Ocean. The main road with the store, the post office, the visitor centre, a church and the ubiquitous memorial to the fallen of WW1 led to the fishing port. The port jetty is dominated by a tall ugly square block and a squat warehouse where refrigerated lorries from the continent were waiting the catch. A Victorian style hotel on the front would have been in prime position for tourists, had it not been for that tall structure which seemed like refrigerated fish holder. I wonder if this the location that Young Lochinvar hailed from in Walter Scotts poem? ***
Up a steep winding road to the Inver Lodge Hotel, a building with little character resembling more a roadside motel, but the views of the bay were fabulous, especially as the sun had come out and more than made up for lack of architectural character. The reception was warm, the greeting friendly as we found throughout the tour and the rooms were large with comfortable beds, in our case, we could have slept 4 in the bed.
I took the opportunity before dinner to go out and take photographs of the bay and the mountain overlooking the landscape. Suilven is an imposing and interesting geological structure in that it is a single mountain, conical in shape. I climbed up the steps behind the hotel to the heather path to look at the seemingly wild countryside and Suilven sitting there with the clouds overhead, a dark mound shrouded. It started raining whilst I was out there, and before entering the hotel was lucky to see a rainbow over the hills.
Drinks before dining in the large dining room with a good view but sadly not a good table near the window. Saw the last boats and ferries come in while the sun went down. The sunset gilded everything in the room, turning Dad into a golden buddha. The hotel is obviously popular with sportsmen, there were two tables of anglers, we did pass several places where the fishing looked good. There was a consternation in the kitchen with shouting (visions of Fawlty Towers) and an embarrassed maitre d' coming out to apologise that a certain dish had been spoiled (must have been the chef chewing out the sous chef) and could he offer an alternative. After dinner a post prandial walk outside, walking up the road and seeing the lights of the harbour down below made me think about coming out in the morning, weather permitting.
No fire to sit around and warm ourselves, so suffice a bed time drink at the bar and off we went to the XXL bed. Wonder where they get their bed linen for such a large bed? Could pontificate more but am too tired and the brain may go places I don't want it go!!
* http://www.scotland-inverness.co.uk/Chatelaine/EDC/edc-history.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ardvreck_Castle
http://homepages.wmich.edu/~cooneys/poems/Scott.Lochinvar.html
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Rain, Rain, and more Rain
19 August
Rain, Rain and more Rain!!!! Is this how the countryside stays so green????? It's enough to make one quote the childrens ditty.. rain rain go away.
After a good nights sleep, another grey and dismal morning. Breakfast was as good as dinner, I can get used to scrambled eggs and salmon, even though the portion I thought was a bit on the ''scottish'' side. My darling Jeff bought me a wee Hamish coo to remind me of our trip, though I think this little fellow looks more like a Guinea Cow than a Heilan' Coo!
A delayed departure meant a hurried ride towards the next ferry at Mallaig. Detour to the Bridge Across the Atlantic and the Tigh an Truish ''House of Trousers'' on the Isle of Siel. After the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745, highlanders were forbidden to wear the kilt on the mainland, but as this was an island it was exempt from the law, hence the inn where highlanders would divest their trousers and don their kilts! A 7 minute stop at the beginning of GlenFinnan * for a Kodak minute. The monument to Bonny Prince Charlie at the head of Loch ... and behind us the GlenFinnan Viaduct made famous by the Harry Potter railway scene. A harried ride through the Glen reminiscent of Prince Charlies escape to the Isle of Skye, rushing past gushing waterfalls over craggy boulders, lakes with islands of tall trees resembling grecian temples. One loch opens to another, and then finally the Atlantic Ocean.
Arrived at Mallaig, at the end of the GlenFinnan railway, to take the ferry across to the Isle of Skye, to be told that we were late. We were supposed to have been there 30 minutes before the sailing and were 5 minutes late. HAH! Let me at him Murgatroyd!! The crossing was 20-25 minutes and I was not going to take another of those tablets that would tranq a horse! I stayed topside and outside all the time, braving the rain and watching the mainland mountains disappear into the rain. Across the Isle of Sleat (pron. Slate) and drove to Toravaig House, our hotel for the night. A brief stop for tea and back towards the harbour to visit Armadale Castle, the Clan Donald H.Q. Walked through the gardens of the castle, and through the ruins and the raindrops. It was good to go through the Clan museum if only to get dry again. Quest for my t-shirt thwarted again. **
Whilst the others relaxed before dinner, I went out and took pictures of the few stones that remain of Knock Castle overlooking a wee bay (Knock Bay), not to be confused with Castle Knock near Aberdeen. Flat light did not deter me, and I wandered down the track, past a dog standing and looking at me without barking, past the eerie wee cottage to the waters edge, to find the tide coming in and a lonesome rowboat, an abandoned barn and the remains of the castle on the hillock. All very quiet other than the sound of the waves and I felt it was time to go back and get ready for dinner. Luckily no dog to watch me pass and only the sound of the wind to accompany me.
Was late for dinner and went straight into the dining room for a 3 course dinner, after which Jeff and I retired to the lounge for coffee next to the fire. I could get used to having the fire on in the evenings. Another night of falling into bed after a long and tiring day in the car.
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glenfinnan
** http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/skye/armadale/index.html
Rain, Rain and more Rain!!!! Is this how the countryside stays so green????? It's enough to make one quote the childrens ditty.. rain rain go away.
After a good nights sleep, another grey and dismal morning. Breakfast was as good as dinner, I can get used to scrambled eggs and salmon, even though the portion I thought was a bit on the ''scottish'' side. My darling Jeff bought me a wee Hamish coo to remind me of our trip, though I think this little fellow looks more like a Guinea Cow than a Heilan' Coo!
A delayed departure meant a hurried ride towards the next ferry at Mallaig. Detour to the Bridge Across the Atlantic and the Tigh an Truish ''House of Trousers'' on the Isle of Siel. After the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745, highlanders were forbidden to wear the kilt on the mainland, but as this was an island it was exempt from the law, hence the inn where highlanders would divest their trousers and don their kilts! A 7 minute stop at the beginning of GlenFinnan * for a Kodak minute. The monument to Bonny Prince Charlie at the head of Loch ... and behind us the GlenFinnan Viaduct made famous by the Harry Potter railway scene. A harried ride through the Glen reminiscent of Prince Charlies escape to the Isle of Skye, rushing past gushing waterfalls over craggy boulders, lakes with islands of tall trees resembling grecian temples. One loch opens to another, and then finally the Atlantic Ocean.
Arrived at Mallaig, at the end of the GlenFinnan railway, to take the ferry across to the Isle of Skye, to be told that we were late. We were supposed to have been there 30 minutes before the sailing and were 5 minutes late. HAH! Let me at him Murgatroyd!! The crossing was 20-25 minutes and I was not going to take another of those tablets that would tranq a horse! I stayed topside and outside all the time, braving the rain and watching the mainland mountains disappear into the rain. Across the Isle of Sleat (pron. Slate) and drove to Toravaig House, our hotel for the night. A brief stop for tea and back towards the harbour to visit Armadale Castle, the Clan Donald H.Q. Walked through the gardens of the castle, and through the ruins and the raindrops. It was good to go through the Clan museum if only to get dry again. Quest for my t-shirt thwarted again. **
Whilst the others relaxed before dinner, I went out and took pictures of the few stones that remain of Knock Castle overlooking a wee bay (Knock Bay), not to be confused with Castle Knock near Aberdeen. Flat light did not deter me, and I wandered down the track, past a dog standing and looking at me without barking, past the eerie wee cottage to the waters edge, to find the tide coming in and a lonesome rowboat, an abandoned barn and the remains of the castle on the hillock. All very quiet other than the sound of the waves and I felt it was time to go back and get ready for dinner. Luckily no dog to watch me pass and only the sound of the wind to accompany me.
Was late for dinner and went straight into the dining room for a 3 course dinner, after which Jeff and I retired to the lounge for coffee next to the fire. I could get used to having the fire on in the evenings. Another night of falling into bed after a long and tiring day in the car.
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glenfinnan
** http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/skye/armadale/index.html
On the road
August 18
Lovely start to the day, sun over the loch and a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs and salmon to make sure I didn't falter throughout the day.
Departure direction Oban, where we stopped for coffee at the Caledonian Hotel amidst a downpour which spoiled our view of the harbour. It would have been nice if we had been able to walk around and absorb the feel of the place.
On to Port Appin and the hotel which is a low lying house right on the road with a small porch. The whole area is definitely a boating area, with many small sailing vessels moored along the shoreline. Left the bags at the hotel and onto GlenCoe, where first stop was at the visitor centre. Jeff and I had a little walk around the nature walk, dodging the raindrops and then into the cafe for lunch, much needed! Decided to give the 'GlenCoe Experience' a miss and onto the road again. The clouds shrouding the tops of the mountains along with the rain combined to make a very atmospheric landscape. One can almost imagine the people of two or three hundred years ago walking along well trodden paths, pausing for the night along the route at a small inn. The rain caused many waterfalls adding to the rain sodden appearance of the Glen which added to the reflections on the massacre of the MacDonalds on 13 April 1792.
Made them stop for some Kodak moments even though a dismal day with flat light. A mile long detour down to GlenCoe village, through some lovely woodland populated by youth hostels and caravan sites and a caravanette (what is that??) site. A brief stop at the massacre monument, itself hidden along a small road, a tall thin Celtic Cross on a mound of stones.
The hotel is a gem! Individually decorated rooms, comfortable beds and a welcome by Hamish the Coo. A room with a view of the water and lighthouse which does work as we saw that night.
A lovely shower and down to find the party ensconced in the sitting room around the fire. The sitting room has large plate glass windows which allow you to look out onto the road, but that paled into insignificance as the food and service soon took all your attention. The meal was finished back in the sitting room with the fire with our tea and coffee, obviously the other diners thought the drawing room beyond the sitting room was more to their taste. A brief sojourn outside for the smokers and then up to bed, no doubt to the relief of the staff. Probably they don't have that many night owls staying there!
A finishing touch to the night, they had laid out my sleeping gear on the bed, with Hamish at the head!
http://www.glencoescotland.com/ (it appears that Glenfinnan is not the only Harry Potter scenic spot)
Lovely start to the day, sun over the loch and a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs and salmon to make sure I didn't falter throughout the day.
Departure direction Oban, where we stopped for coffee at the Caledonian Hotel amidst a downpour which spoiled our view of the harbour. It would have been nice if we had been able to walk around and absorb the feel of the place.
On to Port Appin and the hotel which is a low lying house right on the road with a small porch. The whole area is definitely a boating area, with many small sailing vessels moored along the shoreline. Left the bags at the hotel and onto GlenCoe, where first stop was at the visitor centre. Jeff and I had a little walk around the nature walk, dodging the raindrops and then into the cafe for lunch, much needed! Decided to give the 'GlenCoe Experience' a miss and onto the road again. The clouds shrouding the tops of the mountains along with the rain combined to make a very atmospheric landscape. One can almost imagine the people of two or three hundred years ago walking along well trodden paths, pausing for the night along the route at a small inn. The rain caused many waterfalls adding to the rain sodden appearance of the Glen which added to the reflections on the massacre of the MacDonalds on 13 April 1792.
Made them stop for some Kodak moments even though a dismal day with flat light. A mile long detour down to GlenCoe village, through some lovely woodland populated by youth hostels and caravan sites and a caravanette (what is that??) site. A brief stop at the massacre monument, itself hidden along a small road, a tall thin Celtic Cross on a mound of stones.
The hotel is a gem! Individually decorated rooms, comfortable beds and a welcome by Hamish the Coo. A room with a view of the water and lighthouse which does work as we saw that night.
A lovely shower and down to find the party ensconced in the sitting room around the fire. The sitting room has large plate glass windows which allow you to look out onto the road, but that paled into insignificance as the food and service soon took all your attention. The meal was finished back in the sitting room with the fire with our tea and coffee, obviously the other diners thought the drawing room beyond the sitting room was more to their taste. A brief sojourn outside for the smokers and then up to bed, no doubt to the relief of the staff. Probably they don't have that many night owls staying there!
A finishing touch to the night, they had laid out my sleeping gear on the bed, with Hamish at the head!
http://www.glencoescotland.com/ (it appears that Glenfinnan is not the only Harry Potter scenic spot)
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Beginning of the journey
17 August
Depart Balmoral Hotel at 9.15 am. Weather - RAIN!! Stopped en route to get anti sea-sickness tablets, Avomine.. remember that name! Fatal Mistake. Arrived at the ferry in Guernock and took one tablet. The crossing was fine, overcast skies but smooth waters. Arrived in Dunoon, I wonder if this is where Dunoon pottery is made or just have taken the name. The high street is a combination of tourist and local, much as found in the rest of the tourist trail. Took the quick route to the next ferry at Tichnacraig. A B road, which I think ought to be demoted to a C road! Problem with taking the anti sea sick pill, sitting at the back of the vehicle and the winding road resulted in a deep sleep and only raised myself on the ferry itself, even though my eyes kept on shutting while standing up. Shame as I missed some lovely scenery I am sure.. no problems as the whole of Scotland is lovely.
Depart Balmoral Hotel at 9.15 am. Weather - RAIN!! Stopped en route to get anti sea-sickness tablets, Avomine.. remember that name! Fatal Mistake. Arrived at the ferry in Guernock and took one tablet. The crossing was fine, overcast skies but smooth waters. Arrived in Dunoon, I wonder if this is where Dunoon pottery is made or just have taken the name. The high street is a combination of tourist and local, much as found in the rest of the tourist trail. Took the quick route to the next ferry at Tichnacraig. A B road, which I think ought to be demoted to a C road! Problem with taking the anti sea sick pill, sitting at the back of the vehicle and the winding road resulted in a deep sleep and only raised myself on the ferry itself, even though my eyes kept on shutting while standing up. Shame as I missed some lovely scenery I am sure.. no problems as the whole of Scotland is lovely.
Stonefield Castle Hotel in Tarbet is a converted Victorian mansion, built in 1837. A fabulous view of Loch Fyne. Check in was ''interesting''. Rooms on the first floor and up a large staircase and an offer to help with the bags up the stairs, after seen the senior members of the party struggle with their bags. Jeff exasperated with signs of independence from them and me! After settling into room and descending, Jeff found a lift!!! Talk about a dipsy doo da check in girl!!
Had a quick walk down to the waters edge, Jeff went down to the bridge and I down to the waters edge. The pines coming almost to the waters edge and the inlets, made me think of N.W USA, especially later on that day. In the bus down to Tarbet to have a walk around. A little harbour with fishing boats moored along the jetty. The evening light was lovely and I was glad for the time to walk around while Jeff and Dad sampled the local hostelry.
Dinner at 8 pm in the large dining room with plate glass windows allowing a super view of the Loch and the mist descending. The service was disappointing when a) asked if we wanted 1 or 2 pieces of bread and b) when asked for more bread they forgot. The quality of the food was good and the prime location of the table with the view made up for the service. After dinner, coffee in the library where I attempted Jeff to a game of checkers on the chess board, but the chicken refused. A lovely night outside, if they had only put on the outdoor heaters it would have been super to sit and take in the air.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Edinburgh
August 16
Early wake up and breakfast with parents. I had a couple of errands to run and a must see. Boots and the National Galleries of Scotland. I had to see the Titians from the Duke of Sutherland's Bridgewater collection, two of which he had asked the Scottish NG to purchase for 100 million pounds. They had just purchased one (Diana and Acteon) and have a few more years to raise 50 million pounds for the other (Diana and Calisto). Lighting was a problem as the natural light with the fluorescent light caused shadows on the canvasses so it certain aspects were not clearly visible. Shame as the canvasses are massive.
The Scottish collection should have pride of place as some of the canvasses are beautiful and not to be relegated to the basement, although I can understand it when they have to compete with Maestros Titian, Monet et al. Robert Burns the painter, incredibly vibrant art deco colours of Diana and her maidens; a fully embroidered canvas of Autumn; The Skating Minister by Raeburn(supposedly very famous so why haven't I come across the reference before?).
Outside the NGS the street artists were in full flow. One side of the building, a Peruvian pan pipe band with relaxing melodies, followed by Clanadonia, a Scottish pipe and drum band (NOT the regimental type either). On the other side, the jugglers, unicycle riders, magicians mix with vendor tents. Up the Royal Mile to see what the Fringe artists are advertising and came across the Worlds Most Pierced Lady. Talk about a sight not for the weak hearted. Her face was covered with piercing and dangles. From the scary to the sublime - further down the road the cast of "Faulty Towers'', three actors who were the epitomy of Basil Fawlty, his wife Sybil and waiter Manuel. It was amazing how they pulled off the characters, even down to Basils walk and silly run. Would have loved to have made it to the show but when we tried to make bookings were told they were not performing that night.
Early dinner in the suite and same routine for bed as the next day we were off to the West Coast.
Early wake up and breakfast with parents. I had a couple of errands to run and a must see. Boots and the National Galleries of Scotland. I had to see the Titians from the Duke of Sutherland's Bridgewater collection, two of which he had asked the Scottish NG to purchase for 100 million pounds. They had just purchased one (Diana and Acteon) and have a few more years to raise 50 million pounds for the other (Diana and Calisto). Lighting was a problem as the natural light with the fluorescent light caused shadows on the canvasses so it certain aspects were not clearly visible. Shame as the canvasses are massive.
The Scottish collection should have pride of place as some of the canvasses are beautiful and not to be relegated to the basement, although I can understand it when they have to compete with Maestros Titian, Monet et al. Robert Burns the painter, incredibly vibrant art deco colours of Diana and her maidens; a fully embroidered canvas of Autumn; The Skating Minister by Raeburn(supposedly very famous so why haven't I come across the reference before?).
Outside the NGS the street artists were in full flow. One side of the building, a Peruvian pan pipe band with relaxing melodies, followed by Clanadonia, a Scottish pipe and drum band (NOT the regimental type either). On the other side, the jugglers, unicycle riders, magicians mix with vendor tents. Up the Royal Mile to see what the Fringe artists are advertising and came across the Worlds Most Pierced Lady. Talk about a sight not for the weak hearted. Her face was covered with piercing and dangles. From the scary to the sublime - further down the road the cast of "Faulty Towers'', three actors who were the epitomy of Basil Fawlty, his wife Sybil and waiter Manuel. It was amazing how they pulled off the characters, even down to Basils walk and silly run. Would have loved to have made it to the show but when we tried to make bookings were told they were not performing that night.
Early dinner in the suite and same routine for bed as the next day we were off to the West Coast.
Lost in Scotland 09
Not Lost in Oman, but Lost in Scotland for the next few days
August 15.
Arrived in London for a day's wait for the 5.30 flight up to Edinburgh. Jeff arrived at T3 and me at T1, met by Saleem (bless him) and off to house to change, re pack and food. Napped for a hour (fatal) and made it down to lunch to find all kids around the dining table in kitchen. Had a couple of mouthfuls and then back up to finish packing and off to T5. Good run and arrive in plenty of time for the flight. Beeped going through security and had a thorough search by Ms Lesbo, any more feeling and I was going to ask her if we were now officially dating. Eventually after she had her fun coping a feel she got the electronic wand. I did have a loud grumble about her. We were lucky and able to get somebody to move so Jeff and I could sit together. Uneventful flight, other than bumpy descent.
Took an age for the luggage to appear which was strange considering it was not a busy airport, then a trundle down the pavement to the taxi rank to find no taxis in sight at all. The taxi marshall turned up and tried to hustle some taxis which arrived in singles and luckily we were the third in line. Half an hour or so later we were in the front of the Balmoral Hotel in Princes Street about to be photographed by a paparazzi before he realised we were not worth a shot. Little does he know. Ha ha!
On same floor as parents, which must be the smoking floor. Dinner of wild mushroom soup (delicious!) and omelette before retiring to bed to the sounds of festival goers out and about enjoying the festivities.
August 15.
Arrived in London for a day's wait for the 5.30 flight up to Edinburgh. Jeff arrived at T3 and me at T1, met by Saleem (bless him) and off to house to change, re pack and food. Napped for a hour (fatal) and made it down to lunch to find all kids around the dining table in kitchen. Had a couple of mouthfuls and then back up to finish packing and off to T5. Good run and arrive in plenty of time for the flight. Beeped going through security and had a thorough search by Ms Lesbo, any more feeling and I was going to ask her if we were now officially dating. Eventually after she had her fun coping a feel she got the electronic wand. I did have a loud grumble about her. We were lucky and able to get somebody to move so Jeff and I could sit together. Uneventful flight, other than bumpy descent.
Took an age for the luggage to appear which was strange considering it was not a busy airport, then a trundle down the pavement to the taxi rank to find no taxis in sight at all. The taxi marshall turned up and tried to hustle some taxis which arrived in singles and luckily we were the third in line. Half an hour or so later we were in the front of the Balmoral Hotel in Princes Street about to be photographed by a paparazzi before he realised we were not worth a shot. Little does he know. Ha ha!
On same floor as parents, which must be the smoking floor. Dinner of wild mushroom soup (delicious!) and omelette before retiring to bed to the sounds of festival goers out and about enjoying the festivities.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Lost at Sea
I was given the opportunity to visit the latest venture by the Marina Bandar Rowdha. A ''submarine'' parked at Bandar Khayran which affords you the luxury of viewing the abundant sea life and seascape without getting your hair wet.
The boat takes you from Marina Bandar Rowdha to Bandar Khayran in 20 minutes to rendezvous with a smaller vessel where you embark on your tour of the coral and its life. Descending the steps, , into the keel where there are stools in front of each portal a total of x people can sit and watch the fish. It's like being in a large fish tank. You slowly move above the coral oohing and ahhing at the various fish and if you are lucky as we were , you get to see a Moral Eel poking its head out to gawp at the people looking out in wide-eyed fascination.
The tour lasts an hour and we saw at least 6 varieties of fish, Triggerfish, 2 types of butterfly fish, or was it 3?, something very similar to a parrot fish, domino fish, clownfish and one I couldn't identify on the chart which looked as though it had striped pajama bottons. Along with 3 forms of coral; brain , fan and one I can't remember (visual overload). Sea slugs litter the floor along with spiny black sea urchins with their spines ready to spear the unsuspecting; a species I can never forget as it tried to kill a young me (when I was 7 in Dubrovnik) but didn't succeed as you can attest to.
Sadly there are fools out there who think nothing of throwing their empty soda cans into the sea as I saw at least 4 of them and can only hope that this may be the future home of a coral and subsequent habitants. There was also coral damage and I brought this up later with the operators of Al Khayran who did say the draft of the boat is not so deep that it will touch the coral but they have noticed vessels who anchor amidst the coral. They did mention they have sent photographs of the coral damage to the Ministry of Environment - now I just wonder if anything will be done about it!
Its wonderful to see more opportunities for tourism opening up, along with the catamaran Azura, dhow trips up the coast, diving tours and assorted water activities and now the ''submarine'' , though I ought to mention this is not for the claustrophobic or non mobile people. I wish the Marina and its venture all the success.
The website for online bookings is http://www.alkhayran.com/ though at this time of posting the site was not up.
The boat takes you from Marina Bandar Rowdha to Bandar Khayran in 20 minutes to rendezvous with a smaller vessel where you embark on your tour of the coral and its life. Descending the steps, , into the keel where there are stools in front of each portal a total of x people can sit and watch the fish. It's like being in a large fish tank. You slowly move above the coral oohing and ahhing at the various fish and if you are lucky as we were , you get to see a Moral Eel poking its head out to gawp at the people looking out in wide-eyed fascination.
The tour lasts an hour and we saw at least 6 varieties of fish, Triggerfish, 2 types of butterfly fish, or was it 3?, something very similar to a parrot fish, domino fish, clownfish and one I couldn't identify on the chart which looked as though it had striped pajama bottons. Along with 3 forms of coral; brain , fan and one I can't remember (visual overload). Sea slugs litter the floor along with spiny black sea urchins with their spines ready to spear the unsuspecting; a species I can never forget as it tried to kill a young me (when I was 7 in Dubrovnik) but didn't succeed as you can attest to.
Sadly there are fools out there who think nothing of throwing their empty soda cans into the sea as I saw at least 4 of them and can only hope that this may be the future home of a coral and subsequent habitants. There was also coral damage and I brought this up later with the operators of Al Khayran who did say the draft of the boat is not so deep that it will touch the coral but they have noticed vessels who anchor amidst the coral. They did mention they have sent photographs of the coral damage to the Ministry of Environment - now I just wonder if anything will be done about it!
Its wonderful to see more opportunities for tourism opening up, along with the catamaran Azura, dhow trips up the coast, diving tours and assorted water activities and now the ''submarine'' , though I ought to mention this is not for the claustrophobic or non mobile people. I wish the Marina and its venture all the success.
The website for online bookings is http://www.alkhayran.com/ though at this time of posting the site was not up.
Friday, May 8, 2009
Lost in Barka
OK, not really lost in Barka, though you can go through the myriad roads off the the main road, some tarmac some roughly graded and as long as you know the general direction you can't really get lost. We've been going to Barka for almost 30 years and have seen the transformation from sleepy fishing village, to town size to the thriving sprawling township it is now. Houses springing up amongst the palm plantations, new roads connecting with existing paths. There is a large electricity/desalination plant on the Muscat side of Barka, after the fishing villages of Basit and Haradi and further up the coast the under construction project of Blue City of Madina al Zarqa. All this has helped the prosperity of Barka and the coastline where land prices had escalated all due to speculation. Prices have since been dropping due to the speculators outside the Gulf being hit with monetary challenges.
Somethings remain the same such as the fish market on the beach. The local municipality built shed with tiled floors and runnels to clear the mess but found that the fishermen preferred the beach. The shed is now used to clean the fish and sell frozen fish. The fish auction is held at one end of the beach with the auctioneer and his clerk sitting on the sand near the waters edge where the fishermen bring their catch to sell. On one instance I saw a fisherman take his catch after a price had been set and thought it was due to his price not being met, later I was told this is a common practice so the fishermen know how much to charge for their catch. The auction prices are in 10s of baiza so 1 rial is 10, I could understand the prices when he said 10 for a line of fish, but when he got to 70 I was shocked to find such prices bandied about (No wonder the price of fish is so high!), but learnt later that it was 7 rials! The prices are entered in the log book by the clerk, along with the name of the seller and a flat rate of 500 baizas per sale is collected from the various sellers at the end of day or week.
The names above the shops are also worth noting, in both the spelling and the english translations, ranging from furniture shops to garments. You can spell shoes 3 ways I found, though I am sure there are many more variations on that theme. Sometimes the nature of the shop does not share the same photograph on the board ... as seen in Ibra, "Sale of Mutton" on a board with a picture of a camel.
Tourism is also on the plans for Barka, with plans for opening Barka fort and renovating (again) Bait Na'maan the fortified house 5 km out of Barka. Bait Na'maan was used as a rest house for the Imam of Oman, hence it being fortified. Built on 3 floors similar in structure to a fort, it was used as a stopping place for the Iman between his journeys to or from Barka or Rustaq. There is an escape route
The original essence of the bullfights with the 3 ring human arena is no longer, having been replaced by a concrete ring with tiers, all supposed to be safer for the human audience. Before anybody gets their panties in a wad, it is NOT bullfighting ala Espagnole, this is 2 bulls who put heads together and try to push one another out of the ring, Bovine Sumo wrestling you may call it. The original venue was out in the open, with owners and judges in the centre, surrounded by the other owners and contestants tethered behind them and then a ring of viewers, either on foot or on top of vehicles. Part of the amusement or thrill was to wait for one of the contestants attempting or succeeding in escaping their owners and running out of the ring chased by an enthousiastic crowd, which would result in the onlookers scattering in the path of the bull. A sport that has taken off is horse racing, with little stables cropping up amongst the plantations. Meets are held along the Batinah coast mainly on Fridays.
Now that we have moved from the old farm to the new location it allows us to be more adventurous in terms of exploring the 'hood. Ha ha. Turn right from the gates and see where u end up, guaranteed never to bore you!
Somethings remain the same such as the fish market on the beach. The local municipality built shed with tiled floors and runnels to clear the mess but found that the fishermen preferred the beach. The shed is now used to clean the fish and sell frozen fish. The fish auction is held at one end of the beach with the auctioneer and his clerk sitting on the sand near the waters edge where the fishermen bring their catch to sell. On one instance I saw a fisherman take his catch after a price had been set and thought it was due to his price not being met, later I was told this is a common practice so the fishermen know how much to charge for their catch. The auction prices are in 10s of baiza so 1 rial is 10, I could understand the prices when he said 10 for a line of fish, but when he got to 70 I was shocked to find such prices bandied about (No wonder the price of fish is so high!), but learnt later that it was 7 rials! The prices are entered in the log book by the clerk, along with the name of the seller and a flat rate of 500 baizas per sale is collected from the various sellers at the end of day or week.
The names above the shops are also worth noting, in both the spelling and the english translations, ranging from furniture shops to garments. You can spell shoes 3 ways I found, though I am sure there are many more variations on that theme. Sometimes the nature of the shop does not share the same photograph on the board ... as seen in Ibra, "Sale of Mutton" on a board with a picture of a camel.
Tourism is also on the plans for Barka, with plans for opening Barka fort and renovating (again) Bait Na'maan the fortified house 5 km out of Barka. Bait Na'maan was used as a rest house for the Imam of Oman, hence it being fortified. Built on 3 floors similar in structure to a fort, it was used as a stopping place for the Iman between his journeys to or from Barka or Rustaq. There is an escape route
The original essence of the bullfights with the 3 ring human arena is no longer, having been replaced by a concrete ring with tiers, all supposed to be safer for the human audience. Before anybody gets their panties in a wad, it is NOT bullfighting ala Espagnole, this is 2 bulls who put heads together and try to push one another out of the ring, Bovine Sumo wrestling you may call it. The original venue was out in the open, with owners and judges in the centre, surrounded by the other owners and contestants tethered behind them and then a ring of viewers, either on foot or on top of vehicles. Part of the amusement or thrill was to wait for one of the contestants attempting or succeeding in escaping their owners and running out of the ring chased by an enthousiastic crowd, which would result in the onlookers scattering in the path of the bull. A sport that has taken off is horse racing, with little stables cropping up amongst the plantations. Meets are held along the Batinah coast mainly on Fridays.
Now that we have moved from the old farm to the new location it allows us to be more adventurous in terms of exploring the 'hood. Ha ha. Turn right from the gates and see where u end up, guaranteed never to bore you!
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Wadi Bani Awf
Did the Snake canyon walk twice about 15 years ago. Where does the time go , yadda yadda yadda. Never progressed further so I was happy to go up to Bilad Seyt in Wadi Bani Awf last Friday.
Took off from the farm and took the Nakhl Rustaq loop. They're doing major road works just before Awabi (the main town for Wadi Bani Kharus) and they have pink traffic cones.. PINK!! I tell you good googlies to mowglies... with MATCHING PINK accessories, by that I mean lines with pink strands. I could say I'm gobsmacked which I am and that I can't say more, which I can but I won't. Say thank you! I'm still in a state of shock at not just pink but BARBIE PINK no less. I mean come on folks.. who is playing a joke here?
Met the second 4WD at the turn off for WBA which luckily still has not been tamed by tarmac road but no doubt its not far behind. That's mean of me, tarmac would make it so much easier for the local residents to travel in and out, but if one thought about it, the maintenance would be a killer. Through the main wadi with the villages tucked on either sides and terraces of lemon trees, date palms and alfalfa/ garlic etc, through narrower parts where the water was flowing well and managed to clean the tyres through several small crossings.
The sights you see along the route.... a flag of Oman painted on a rock and beyond that high on a mountain the rock has naturally sheered off and you see a Devil sign, index and small finger raised. A typical sign at a hard rock concert (no pun intended). 3 large blue signboards with various villages and distances and arrows marking the direction , set in the middle of nowhere. A graveyard with large shale rock showing the head and foot of the grave, in the middle of no where.. an abandoned rock house.. round rock tombs possibly pre islamic? Of course.. the ubiqutuous goat which in the Wadi looked healthy with shiny clean coats.
Come to a small hamlet with a single track between two houses which signals the start of the ascent. Normally for Snake Canyon this is where you would park one vehicle and then get into the other cars for the ride up to midway point which marks the start of the walk but thats another entry.
Put the Monster in 4Lo and off we took up the track. I waited for the lead 4WD to go ahead a bit as I didn't want to rear end it driving the Monster which had power to spare. It was a Nissan Armada v12? and there were only 4 of us in it. S. offered it when he knew his wife and daughter were going with us and it was a comfort knowing we had that power to spare. A narrow track with passing spaces meant total concentration, especially as at a couple of points that's all you had, a rock wall and a sheer drop! To break the monotony you had a couple of points where all you saw was sky ahead of you and no idea where the road was when you crested the apex. My companions were happy to be on the rock side.
We came across a set of signs for tourists (brown signboards) showing distances along the Jebel tracks. It would be a great weekend trip to follow the routes. I offered a ride to a young man waiting at the signposts who said he was going to Bilad Seyt, he declined saying he had called his brother to come and collect him and that it was not far from where we were. As we set off we saw his brother coming down the hill and to our
utter amazement and dismay he was driving with a baby in his arms!!! Insanity. 'Nuff said.
Bilad Seyt is all that I thought off.. rather like Misfat al Ibrayeen above al Hamra. Rows of houses on levels above a green palate of fields and date palms. Very picturesque and perfect for tourist shots .. or shots at tourists? Nope , its a safe country and no such things happen! We were not the only ones there but were lucky in bagging a good spot for our picnic. Besides a falaj, under a tree and obviously where the local ladies come to do their laundry judging by packets of laundry detergent left behind. At least we were in the shade and had a coolish breeze.
Return journey, passengers had enough of looking down at the chasm so sat towards the wall. Different experience going down as opposed to the ascent and praying we wouldn't meet a car coming up. Seemed quicker going down. Took time to exit the wadi, due to picture taking (both vehicles). Back to the farm on the same route and past my PINK traffic cones, in time to see the sunset while in my lovely relaxing hammock. All in all a very good day.
Took off from the farm and took the Nakhl Rustaq loop. They're doing major road works just before Awabi (the main town for Wadi Bani Kharus) and they have pink traffic cones.. PINK!! I tell you good googlies to mowglies... with MATCHING PINK accessories, by that I mean lines with pink strands. I could say I'm gobsmacked which I am and that I can't say more, which I can but I won't. Say thank you! I'm still in a state of shock at not just pink but BARBIE PINK no less. I mean come on folks.. who is playing a joke here?
Met the second 4WD at the turn off for WBA which luckily still has not been tamed by tarmac road but no doubt its not far behind. That's mean of me, tarmac would make it so much easier for the local residents to travel in and out, but if one thought about it, the maintenance would be a killer. Through the main wadi with the villages tucked on either sides and terraces of lemon trees, date palms and alfalfa/ garlic etc, through narrower parts where the water was flowing well and managed to clean the tyres through several small crossings.
The sights you see along the route.... a flag of Oman painted on a rock and beyond that high on a mountain the rock has naturally sheered off and you see a Devil sign, index and small finger raised. A typical sign at a hard rock concert (no pun intended). 3 large blue signboards with various villages and distances and arrows marking the direction , set in the middle of nowhere. A graveyard with large shale rock showing the head and foot of the grave, in the middle of no where.. an abandoned rock house.. round rock tombs possibly pre islamic? Of course.. the ubiqutuous goat which in the Wadi looked healthy with shiny clean coats.
Come to a small hamlet with a single track between two houses which signals the start of the ascent. Normally for Snake Canyon this is where you would park one vehicle and then get into the other cars for the ride up to midway point which marks the start of the walk but thats another entry.
Put the Monster in 4Lo and off we took up the track. I waited for the lead 4WD to go ahead a bit as I didn't want to rear end it driving the Monster which had power to spare. It was a Nissan Armada v12? and there were only 4 of us in it. S. offered it when he knew his wife and daughter were going with us and it was a comfort knowing we had that power to spare. A narrow track with passing spaces meant total concentration, especially as at a couple of points that's all you had, a rock wall and a sheer drop! To break the monotony you had a couple of points where all you saw was sky ahead of you and no idea where the road was when you crested the apex. My companions were happy to be on the rock side.
We came across a set of signs for tourists (brown signboards) showing distances along the Jebel tracks. It would be a great weekend trip to follow the routes. I offered a ride to a young man waiting at the signposts who said he was going to Bilad Seyt, he declined saying he had called his brother to come and collect him and that it was not far from where we were. As we set off we saw his brother coming down the hill and to our
utter amazement and dismay he was driving with a baby in his arms!!! Insanity. 'Nuff said.
Bilad Seyt is all that I thought off.. rather like Misfat al Ibrayeen above al Hamra. Rows of houses on levels above a green palate of fields and date palms. Very picturesque and perfect for tourist shots .. or shots at tourists? Nope , its a safe country and no such things happen! We were not the only ones there but were lucky in bagging a good spot for our picnic. Besides a falaj, under a tree and obviously where the local ladies come to do their laundry judging by packets of laundry detergent left behind. At least we were in the shade and had a coolish breeze.
Return journey, passengers had enough of looking down at the chasm so sat towards the wall. Different experience going down as opposed to the ascent and praying we wouldn't meet a car coming up. Seemed quicker going down. Took time to exit the wadi, due to picture taking (both vehicles). Back to the farm on the same route and past my PINK traffic cones, in time to see the sunset while in my lovely relaxing hammock. All in all a very good day.
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