20th August
Woke up to another day of rain. I need my vitamin D!! On the road again and back onto the mainland via the Skye Road Bridge.
Eilean Donan Castle. I have wanted to visit this castle since the first time I saw it. It used to be part of the Clan McKenzie stronghold, but as I was told by a steward, the Clan MacRae were the traditional constables of the Clan McKenzie and were given the castle by them. Perched on an outcropping of rock close to the shore, there are many old lores why and how the castle came into being * (see link at bottom).
Entering the castle through a side door there is an exhibition on the ancient site of the castle, passing into an open courtyard with a grand view of the loch. The rain was diminishing and clouds opening up to allow polka dots of blue to shine through. The views from the courtyard were no less beautiful than the other sites we have seen through our tour, the trees coming down to the shoreline, still water and the reflections of the skies, small sailing vessels.
The castle has been furnished on all 3 levels and there are wardens or guides to help with questions and they are kept busy with clan members from throughout the world who want to learn their history. In the grand hall there is a framed poem written by a poet who bears the same name as the Lt Col who restored the castle; a famous poem from WW1 that is as pertinent now as it was then. In Flanders Field do poppies grow. The modern version is In Afghanistan do poppies grow. There is a small section on the military participation of the clan in various battles. There are no more Scottish regiments thanks to the then Minister of Defense and I shall say no more about that lest I commence my rant!
Onto Ullapool with the row of houses looking out at the harbour and the jetty with the fishing boats moored in rows, the fishermen working on their nets for the trawlers. The sun came out for the first time in 3 days, what a relief. Had lunch at the Best Seafood Restaurant in 2005, obviously so good I can't remember its name. Walked around with Dad after lunch, looking for the elusive t shirt. I shall NOT give up. Onto the road again for our penultimate night on the road.
Stopped along the way to look at the ruins of Ardvrek Castle with its interesting ghost of a McLeod chieftans daughter committing suicide rather than be the "deils bride". Close by is Calda House, where The McKenzie had his household. There is a ghost, or ghostly lights associated with this structure. Luckily the sun shone on us, yet one can imagine how it would look during inclement weather. **
LochInver is yet another fishing port, though situated in a bay looking out at the Atlantic Ocean. The main road with the store, the post office, the visitor centre, a church and the ubiquitous memorial to the fallen of WW1 led to the fishing port. The port jetty is dominated by a tall ugly square block and a squat warehouse where refrigerated lorries from the continent were waiting the catch. A Victorian style hotel on the front would have been in prime position for tourists, had it not been for that tall structure which seemed like refrigerated fish holder. I wonder if this the location that Young Lochinvar hailed from in Walter Scotts poem? ***
Up a steep winding road to the Inver Lodge Hotel, a building with little character resembling more a roadside motel, but the views of the bay were fabulous, especially as the sun had come out and more than made up for lack of architectural character. The reception was warm, the greeting friendly as we found throughout the tour and the rooms were large with comfortable beds, in our case, we could have slept 4 in the bed.
I took the opportunity before dinner to go out and take photographs of the bay and the mountain overlooking the landscape. Suilven is an imposing and interesting geological structure in that it is a single mountain, conical in shape. I climbed up the steps behind the hotel to the heather path to look at the seemingly wild countryside and Suilven sitting there with the clouds overhead, a dark mound shrouded. It started raining whilst I was out there, and before entering the hotel was lucky to see a rainbow over the hills.
Drinks before dining in the large dining room with a good view but sadly not a good table near the window. Saw the last boats and ferries come in while the sun went down. The sunset gilded everything in the room, turning Dad into a golden buddha. The hotel is obviously popular with sportsmen, there were two tables of anglers, we did pass several places where the fishing looked good. There was a consternation in the kitchen with shouting (visions of Fawlty Towers) and an embarrassed maitre d' coming out to apologise that a certain dish had been spoiled (must have been the chef chewing out the sous chef) and could he offer an alternative. After dinner a post prandial walk outside, walking up the road and seeing the lights of the harbour down below made me think about coming out in the morning, weather permitting.
No fire to sit around and warm ourselves, so suffice a bed time drink at the bar and off we went to the XXL bed. Wonder where they get their bed linen for such a large bed? Could pontificate more but am too tired and the brain may go places I don't want it go!!
* http://www.scotland-inverness.co.uk/Chatelaine/EDC/edc-history.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ardvreck_Castle
http://homepages.wmich.edu/~cooneys/poems/Scott.Lochinvar.html
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