Sunday, September 6, 2009

Culloden

August 21

Glorious morning sunshine so I had to wander up the road from the hotel to get morning views of Inverloch Harbour. The port was already busy with ferries ready to set sail. After breakfast I got a lift down to the Highland Pottery to see what they did. Handmade pottery on the premises, they decorate just about everything around them, from the stone walls, to rocks, to car shapes and sofa shapes with pottery shards.

Dozed on and off on the road to Inverness and Culloden, taking the 'scenic route' , ie B roads. Stopped at the GlenMorangie Distillery just before Inverness. Saw a comment by A. Samad Sakran from S. Arabia who wrote - "Must Have one of these at home!" Hmmm.. I wonder. There was no time to wait for the next tour so on to Culloden.

The Culloden Battlefield Visitor Centre is a new structure, in keeping with the lie of the land, a low built building of local stone that blends in with the surroundings rather than dominate and overshadow the events of that day. All the outside signage was first in Gaelic then English. A quick lunch (I have learnt not to delay feeding my tum when the chance comes along) and then through the museum which is incredibly well done! Interactive displays made history come alive with the voices of people living at that time, from nobles to farmers. At the end of the museum you could pick up an audio tour that is linked by GPS to points on the field so the audio comes on automatically. Poignant tales by the soldiers on both sides of the field as you walk around, absorbing the atmosphere. A cairn has been erected in the middle of the battlefield, with grave markers of the clanspeople who had fallen. The MacIntoshes had the most with 3 markers. I said a brief prayer for their souls and all who had fallen on that day. *

The clouds were gathering at the end of the tour and the wind was whipping the trees, all very fitting for the end. Dad and the others had gone to Fort St. George and we had to collect them on the way to the McNies in Rafford. Saw a parasurfer on the loch in front of the fort, made me feel COLD, but it was a sight to see.

Arrived at sunset chez les McNies, in time for tea and a brief walk around his lovely garden behind the house. A late night after dinner, spent talking with James and MC and catching up on news and then upto bed for the last day on the road.

* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Culloden

Eilean Donan to LochInver

20th August

Woke up to another day of rain. I need my vitamin D!! On the road again and back onto the mainland via the Skye Road Bridge.

Eilean Donan Castle. I have wanted to visit this castle since the first time I saw it. It used to be part of the Clan McKenzie stronghold, but as I was told by a steward, the Clan MacRae were the traditional constables of the Clan McKenzie and were given the castle by them. Perched on an outcropping of rock close to the shore, there are many old lores why and how the castle came into being * (see link at bottom).

Entering the castle through a side door there is an exhibition on the ancient site of the castle, passing into an open courtyard with a grand view of the loch. The rain was diminishing and clouds opening up to allow polka dots of blue to shine through. The views from the courtyard were no less beautiful than the other sites we have seen through our tour, the trees coming down to the shoreline, still water and the reflections of the skies, small sailing vessels.

The castle has been furnished on all 3 levels and there are wardens or guides to help with questions and they are kept busy with clan members from throughout the world who want to learn their history. In the grand hall there is a framed poem written by a poet who bears the same name as the Lt Col who restored the castle; a famous poem from WW1 that is as pertinent now as it was then. In Flanders Field do poppies grow. The modern version is In Afghanistan do poppies grow. There is a small section on the military participation of the clan in various battles. There are no more Scottish regiments thanks to the then Minister of Defense and I shall say no more about that lest I commence my rant!

Onto Ullapool with the row of houses looking out at the harbour and the jetty with the fishing boats moored in rows, the fishermen working on their nets for the trawlers. The sun came out for the first time in 3 days, what a relief. Had lunch at the Best Seafood Restaurant in 2005, obviously so good I can't remember its name. Walked around with Dad after lunch, looking for the elusive t shirt. I shall NOT give up. Onto the road again for our penultimate night on the road.

Stopped along the way to look at the ruins of Ardvrek Castle with its interesting ghost of a McLeod chieftans daughter committing suicide rather than be the "deils bride". Close by is Calda House, where The McKenzie had his household. There is a ghost, or ghostly lights associated with this structure. Luckily the sun shone on us, yet one can imagine how it would look during inclement weather. **

LochInver is yet another fishing port, though situated in a bay looking out at the Atlantic Ocean. The main road with the store, the post office, the visitor centre, a church and the ubiquitous memorial to the fallen of WW1 led to the fishing port. The port jetty is dominated by a tall ugly square block and a squat warehouse where refrigerated lorries from the continent were waiting the catch. A Victorian style hotel on the front would have been in prime position for tourists, had it not been for that tall structure which seemed like refrigerated fish holder. I wonder if this the location that Young Lochinvar hailed from in Walter Scotts poem? ***

Up a steep winding road to the Inver Lodge Hotel, a building with little character resembling more a roadside motel, but the views of the bay were fabulous, especially as the sun had come out and more than made up for lack of architectural character. The reception was warm, the greeting friendly as we found throughout the tour and the rooms were large with comfortable beds, in our case, we could have slept 4 in the bed.

I took the opportunity before dinner to go out and take photographs of the bay and the mountain overlooking the landscape. Suilven is an imposing and interesting geological structure in that it is a single mountain, conical in shape. I climbed up the steps behind the hotel to the heather path to look at the seemingly wild countryside and Suilven sitting there with the clouds overhead, a dark mound shrouded. It started raining whilst I was out there, and before entering the hotel was lucky to see a rainbow over the hills.

Drinks before dining in the large dining room with a good view but sadly not a good table near the window. Saw the last boats and ferries come in while the sun went down. The sunset gilded everything in the room, turning Dad into a golden buddha. The hotel is obviously popular with sportsmen, there were two tables of anglers, we did pass several places where the fishing looked good. There was a consternation in the kitchen with shouting (visions of Fawlty Towers) and an embarrassed maitre d' coming out to apologise that a certain dish had been spoiled (must have been the chef chewing out the sous chef) and could he offer an alternative. After dinner a post prandial walk outside, walking up the road and seeing the lights of the harbour down below made me think about coming out in the morning, weather permitting.

No fire to sit around and warm ourselves, so suffice a bed time drink at the bar and off we went to the XXL bed. Wonder where they get their bed linen for such a large bed? Could pontificate more but am too tired and the brain may go places I don't want it go!!

* http://www.scotland-inverness.co.uk/Chatelaine/EDC/edc-history.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ardvreck_Castle

http://homepages.wmich.edu/~cooneys/poems/Scott.Lochinvar.html

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Rain, Rain, and more Rain

19 August

Rain, Rain and more Rain!!!! Is this how the countryside stays so green????? It's enough to make one quote the childrens ditty.. rain rain go away.

After a good nights sleep, another grey and dismal morning. Breakfast was as good as dinner, I can get used to scrambled eggs and salmon, even though the portion I thought was a bit on the ''scottish'' side. My darling Jeff bought me a wee Hamish coo to remind me of our trip, though I think this little fellow looks more like a Guinea Cow than a Heilan' Coo!

A delayed departure meant a hurried ride towards the next ferry at Mallaig. Detour to the Bridge Across the Atlantic and the Tigh an Truish ''House of Trousers'' on the Isle of Siel. After the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745, highlanders were forbidden to wear the kilt on the mainland, but as this was an island it was exempt from the law, hence the inn where highlanders would divest their trousers and don their kilts! A 7 minute stop at the beginning of GlenFinnan * for a Kodak minute. The monument to Bonny Prince Charlie at the head of Loch ... and behind us the GlenFinnan Viaduct made famous by the Harry Potter railway scene. A harried ride through the Glen reminiscent of Prince Charlies escape to the Isle of Skye, rushing past gushing waterfalls over craggy boulders, lakes with islands of tall trees resembling grecian temples. One loch opens to another, and then finally the Atlantic Ocean.

Arrived at Mallaig, at the end of the GlenFinnan railway, to take the ferry across to the Isle of Skye, to be told that we were late. We were supposed to have been there 30 minutes before the sailing and were 5 minutes late. HAH! Let me at him Murgatroyd!! The crossing was 20-25 minutes and I was not going to take another of those tablets that would tranq a horse! I stayed topside and outside all the time, braving the rain and watching the mainland mountains disappear into the rain. Across the Isle of Sleat (pron. Slate) and drove to Toravaig House, our hotel for the night. A brief stop for tea and back towards the harbour to visit Armadale Castle, the Clan Donald H.Q. Walked through the gardens of the castle, and through the ruins and the raindrops. It was good to go through the Clan museum if only to get dry again. Quest for my t-shirt thwarted again. **

Whilst the others relaxed before dinner, I went out and took pictures of the few stones that remain of Knock Castle overlooking a wee bay (Knock Bay), not to be confused with Castle Knock near Aberdeen. Flat light did not deter me, and I wandered down the track, past a dog standing and looking at me without barking, past the eerie wee cottage to the waters edge, to find the tide coming in and a lonesome rowboat, an abandoned barn and the remains of the castle on the hillock. All very quiet other than the sound of the waves and I felt it was time to go back and get ready for dinner. Luckily no dog to watch me pass and only the sound of the wind to accompany me.

Was late for dinner and went straight into the dining room for a 3 course dinner, after which Jeff and I retired to the lounge for coffee next to the fire. I could get used to having the fire on in the evenings. Another night of falling into bed after a long and tiring day in the car.

* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glenfinnan

** http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/skye/armadale/index.html

On the road

August 18

Lovely start to the day, sun over the loch and a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs and salmon to make sure I didn't falter throughout the day.

Departure direction Oban, where we stopped for coffee at the Caledonian Hotel amidst a downpour which spoiled our view of the harbour. It would have been nice if we had been able to walk around and absorb the feel of the place.

On to Port Appin and the hotel which is a low lying house right on the road with a small porch. The whole area is definitely a boating area, with many small sailing vessels moored along the shoreline. Left the bags at the hotel and onto GlenCoe, where first stop was at the visitor centre. Jeff and I had a little walk around the nature walk, dodging the raindrops and then into the cafe for lunch, much needed! Decided to give the 'GlenCoe Experience' a miss and onto the road again. The clouds shrouding the tops of the mountains along with the rain combined to make a very atmospheric landscape. One can almost imagine the people of two or three hundred years ago walking along well trodden paths, pausing for the night along the route at a small inn. The rain caused many waterfalls adding to the rain sodden appearance of the Glen which added to the reflections on the massacre of the MacDonalds on 13 April 1792.

Made them stop for some Kodak moments even though a dismal day with flat light. A mile long detour down to GlenCoe village, through some lovely woodland populated by youth hostels and caravan sites and a caravanette (what is that??) site. A brief stop at the massacre monument, itself hidden along a small road, a tall thin Celtic Cross on a mound of stones.

The hotel is a gem! Individually decorated rooms, comfortable beds and a welcome by Hamish the Coo. A room with a view of the water and lighthouse which does work as we saw that night.
A lovely shower and down to find the party ensconced in the sitting room around the fire. The sitting room has large plate glass windows which allow you to look out onto the road, but that paled into insignificance as the food and service soon took all your attention. The meal was finished back in the sitting room with the fire with our tea and coffee, obviously the other diners thought the drawing room beyond the sitting room was more to their taste. A brief sojourn outside for the smokers and then up to bed, no doubt to the relief of the staff. Probably they don't have that many night owls staying there!

A finishing touch to the night, they had laid out my sleeping gear on the bed, with Hamish at the head!

http://www.glencoescotland.com/ (it appears that Glenfinnan is not the only Harry Potter scenic spot)

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Beginning of the journey

17 August

Depart Balmoral Hotel at 9.15 am. Weather - RAIN!! Stopped en route to get anti sea-sickness tablets, Avomine.. remember that name! Fatal Mistake. Arrived at the ferry in Guernock and took one tablet. The crossing was fine, overcast skies but smooth waters. Arrived in Dunoon, I wonder if this is where Dunoon pottery is made or just have taken the name. The high street is a combination of tourist and local, much as found in the rest of the tourist trail. Took the quick route to the next ferry at Tichnacraig. A B road, which I think ought to be demoted to a C road! Problem with taking the anti sea sick pill, sitting at the back of the vehicle and the winding road resulted in a deep sleep and only raised myself on the ferry itself, even though my eyes kept on shutting while standing up. Shame as I missed some lovely scenery I am sure.. no problems as the whole of Scotland is lovely.

Stonefield Castle Hotel in Tarbet is a converted Victorian mansion, built in 1837. A fabulous view of Loch Fyne. Check in was ''interesting''. Rooms on the first floor and up a large staircase and an offer to help with the bags up the stairs, after seen the senior members of the party struggle with their bags. Jeff exasperated with signs of independence from them and me! After settling into room and descending, Jeff found a lift!!! Talk about a dipsy doo da check in girl!!

Had a quick walk down to the waters edge, Jeff went down to the bridge and I down to the waters edge. The pines coming almost to the waters edge and the inlets, made me think of N.W USA, especially later on that day. In the bus down to Tarbet to have a walk around. A little harbour with fishing boats moored along the jetty. The evening light was lovely and I was glad for the time to walk around while Jeff and Dad sampled the local hostelry.
Dinner at 8 pm in the large dining room with plate glass windows allowing a super view of the Loch and the mist descending. The service was disappointing when a) asked if we wanted 1 or 2 pieces of bread and b) when asked for more bread they forgot. The quality of the food was good and the prime location of the table with the view made up for the service. After dinner, coffee in the library where I attempted Jeff to a game of checkers on the chess board, but the chicken refused. A lovely night outside, if they had only put on the outdoor heaters it would have been super to sit and take in the air.

Monday, August 24, 2009

Edinburgh

August 16

Early wake up and breakfast with parents. I had a couple of errands to run and a must see. Boots and the National Galleries of Scotland. I had to see the Titians from the Duke of Sutherland's Bridgewater collection, two of which he had asked the Scottish NG to purchase for 100 million pounds. They had just purchased one (Diana and Acteon) and have a few more years to raise 50 million pounds for the other (Diana and Calisto). Lighting was a problem as the natural light with the fluorescent light caused shadows on the canvasses so it certain aspects were not clearly visible. Shame as the canvasses are massive.

The Scottish collection should have pride of place as some of the canvasses are beautiful and not to be relegated to the basement, although I can understand it when they have to compete with Maestros Titian, Monet et al. Robert Burns the painter, incredibly vibrant art deco colours of Diana and her maidens; a fully embroidered canvas of Autumn; The Skating Minister by Raeburn(supposedly very famous so why haven't I come across the reference before?).

Outside the NGS the street artists were in full flow. One side of the building, a Peruvian pan pipe band with relaxing melodies, followed by Clanadonia, a Scottish pipe and drum band (NOT the regimental type either). On the other side, the jugglers, unicycle riders, magicians mix with vendor tents. Up the Royal Mile to see what the Fringe artists are advertising and came across the Worlds Most Pierced Lady. Talk about a sight not for the weak hearted. Her face was covered with piercing and dangles. From the scary to the sublime - further down the road the cast of "Faulty Towers'', three actors who were the epitomy of Basil Fawlty, his wife Sybil and waiter Manuel. It was amazing how they pulled off the characters, even down to Basils walk and silly run. Would have loved to have made it to the show but when we tried to make bookings were told they were not performing that night.

Early dinner in the suite and same routine for bed as the next day we were off to the West Coast.

Lost in Scotland 09

Not Lost in Oman, but Lost in Scotland for the next few days

August 15.

Arrived in London for a day's wait for the 5.30 flight up to Edinburgh. Jeff arrived at T3 and me at T1, met by Saleem (bless him) and off to house to change, re pack and food. Napped for a hour (fatal) and made it down to lunch to find all kids around the dining table in kitchen. Had a couple of mouthfuls and then back up to finish packing and off to T5. Good run and arrive in plenty of time for the flight. Beeped going through security and had a thorough search by Ms Lesbo, any more feeling and I was going to ask her if we were now officially dating. Eventually after she had her fun coping a feel she got the electronic wand. I did have a loud grumble about her. We were lucky and able to get somebody to move so Jeff and I could sit together. Uneventful flight, other than bumpy descent.

Took an age for the luggage to appear which was strange considering it was not a busy airport, then a trundle down the pavement to the taxi rank to find no taxis in sight at all. The taxi marshall turned up and tried to hustle some taxis which arrived in singles and luckily we were the third in line. Half an hour or so later we were in the front of the Balmoral Hotel in Princes Street about to be photographed by a paparazzi before he realised we were not worth a shot. Little does he know. Ha ha!

On same floor as parents, which must be the smoking floor. Dinner of wild mushroom soup (delicious!) and omelette before retiring to bed to the sounds of festival goers out and about enjoying the festivities.